The Route So Far

From Lake Luzerne to St Gottards Pass and then down again !!

The beautiful lake Luzern

Well we did it! With huge help from Bruce, the good old Mondeo estate and our little home on wheels, we made it to the top over two days. We left Lake Luzerne on saturday morning and trundled across the valley floor with the Swiss Alps rather eerily getting closer and closer.
Bruce bet us two bottles of champagne that we wouldn't make Andermatt by sunday night so the challenge was on !! Once in the lower Alps we climbed and climbed and although like nothing we had done before it was manageble. Bruce met us at Goshenen just below Andermatt on Saturday and we had a beer. We were now pretty confident we could meet the challenge. We drove back down to the camp and then restarted at Goshenen the following morning.  The steep hills started almost immediately and we both had the colly wobbles as we watched bruce and Arby (the caravan!) disappearing up the mountain and through one of the first rather horrible avalanche shelters. We tended to walk through these because the noise of thundering motor bikes of which there were hundreds was just too scary.
Soon the motor bikes were joined by Ferraris galore out for a Sunday trip to the top. We made Andermatt in about 2 1/2 hours with bruce waiting for us as we emerged from a long tunnel. Devils bridge before the tunnel was extraordinary and we were both glad to be cycling at this point and not one of the rock climbers that were scaling the sheer and super high rock face.

Now it was only 7 miles to the top ......unfortunately I thought Bruce said 7 kms so was bitterly disappointed when I thought we were nearly there only to find we still had another 4 miles. I must confess there were many occasions when we were quicker walking than cycling! but it was an extraordinany experience and we struggled on and on and on and up and up and up.! We were now above the first drifts of snow, really quite deep in parts. We passed a huge concrete structure that turned out to be an air vent for the road tunnel under us. 3 kilometres from the top the road divided and we left the fast road and joined the old road made from cobbles. It was hard work and we would love to have seen some Marmots (We could here them calling) and then around a corner was the welcome sight of Bruce's smiling face and the car and caravan decked out with Gemma's Union Jack! We were at the top....2106 metres.
Wow!!! and it was so worth the effort. The views, the lake at the top, the snow, the blue sky were just mind blowing and made us all feel very humble.
So then we went down !! and down and down. The first 14 km on the old cobbled road you can see in the picture which rattled our teeth, our brains and our bones! We were over taken by 10 guys from the 16th Regiment of the Royal Artillery who sweetly stopped to talk to us. They were already on their 2nd pass of the day and were riding from London to Venice in ten days, a distance of 1000 miles ! We met them later in our camp and they were gracious enough to say how proud they were of us ! the British Army no less. One of their group had hit 50 miles an hour going down hill !

a beer at Goshenen

The first hill out of Goshenen with the first avalanche tunnel

Sal getting the best possible picture of the valley we had just come from

Twists and bends as we went up

At the top at last

Other tourists took pictures of us at this sign!! Goodness knows what they are going to do with them

The longed for daily beer. bruce had cooled them in the snow.

Then the cobbled road down to Airolo.

Half way to Taranto

700 miles completed . Wahoo!!

sunshine, rain, sunshine, stunning switzerland and the hills begin in earnest

I would like to put more photos up at this point. The ones in the rain showing Sal in her yellow peril cape are particularly funny.  Sadly i can't seem to get them across from iphoto but will try again another time. We have had the most amazing weather showing switzerland at her very best. Lake Luzerne is almost turquoise at the moment with the glacial water flooding down. The route we have been following has taken us along valley flooss, along the river Ruesse and then further and further up the mountain towards the St Gottards pass which is at 2108 metres. We are almost glad that we had the 'bad' day the other day because had it all gone to plan we would have been doing the big climb yesterday. Bruce went on ahead to check out campsites and the visibilty was about 50 yds and it was snowing at the top. Down below, following Lake Luzerne Sal and I cycled for nearly 7 hours in rain and wind. Actually, we had a great day and had a few adventures on the way......cycling across an airfield was one and taking the ferry across the lake was another. The photos we took were dark and grey.
Today was completely different. Hot and sunny as we climbed up and up and up towards Andermatt. We took endless photos as we just could not believe the colours and the beauty we were seeing. The Swiss are trying really hard to make the route 'cycle friendly' and are very nearly there. Some of the tunnels were a bit scary...but it was the noise of thundering trucks on the roads above us or the roar of the hundreds of motor bikes that over took us that was most off putting. We both managed the climb OK, walking a bit but not nearly as much as expected. Not a marmot to be seen as yet!  Bruce came and picked us up about 5 miles short of Andermatt. With any luck we will be able to get over the pass tomorrow.....Watch this space.

Then Bruce arrived again and all was good again !

Actually it was good before he arrived as well because we left the caravan south of Basle and followed the brilliant Swiss Route 5 for about 33 km through beautiful Swiss country side finally getting to Gelterkinden before getting a train and tram back to our starting point.

The bad day before five glorious days !!

Well what a week we've had ! One very bad day out of 7 isn't too bad but that is how it has worked out and we are now within spitting distance of the St Gottards Pass. The bad day meant hills we weren't expecting, Tom Tom took the car and caravan on hills it it couldnt cope with and Mary Ann  got stuck in nettles and lost in Basle.

Strasbourg to Basle

                                       

1. We had to have a day off cycling after 7 days to catch up with our domestic chores. Goodness knows what our fellow campers made of us! This camp was only a 25 minute cycle ride out of Strasbourg.
2. Sally set off to Colmar and I followed the canal path. Up until this little lock keepers cottage the path had been smooth and easy. It was Sunday and everyone was out.....roller skaters galore, runners, joggers, cyclists,walkers and a family where the 5 year old was cycling, Dad was running  whilst pushing a three year old in his buggy and Mum was running alongside. can you imagine that on the Marriotts way?!! After the cottage the path deteriorated and left the canal. I found myself cycling through fields of wheat ...again ! 
3. Sal and I met up again on the Rhine. Actually it was a rather dull and boring road because for miles and miles we were separated from the river by a high bank. Every now and again we popped up the bank to make sure the river was still there. Banana breaks are common  and we are also munching our way through 88 Ma Baker bars  and about a thousand dextrose tablets !!! Along this road I got my second puncture (silly me had not found the cause of the first puncture which turned out to be a tiny incisor shape stone embedded into the tyre) After a long 83 km ride we finally got into our camp site on an island between the Rhine canal and Rhine river. Actually we were too exhausted to enjoy the view but we managed to eat mackeral fillets in mustard sauce before falling into bed and both slept for nearly 11 hours!
4. This is the real Rhine and not one of the tributaries or canals ! We finally managed to cycle along side it today crossing over to Germany just below Colmar. We could have gone all the way to Basle but stopped about 20km short as we knew of a good campsite. Its built in tiers up a steep hill and along side vineyards . We had a lovely swim, supper and then watched the sunset over the Rhine which was spectacular. Hopefully tomorrow we won't regret the 20 kms we will have to make up in order to get to Luzerne by Wednesday.

Keskastel to Strasbourg

1. Rolling country side on the way to meet Sal who had taken the caravan 80km on towards Strasbourg. She actually left the car and van on the side of the canal leading into Strasbourg. Much much later we got back to it in a torrential storm and found ourselves blocked in by three camper vans. We had no choice but to stay put and then cycled into Strasbourg the next day.
2. Much like England? It was shortly after this I had my first puncture and for the first time EVER did not call Bruce for help!!!
3. A beer stop, proudly showing our GB stickers on the backs of our bikes!
4. As we came into Strasbourg the first building we came across was the European Parliament.
5. Then the Council (Palais) of Europe which is where Ella did her internship last year. Strasbourg is a wonderful city and 100% bike friendly. From this point we pedalled into the city centre (via a sunny beer stop) often just going alongside the canals.
6. & 7. The Cathedral is the central point of the city. As you can see quite spectacular. The surrounding architecture was quite Gothic but there are also huge Italian style Piazzas. Really lovely. I was able to easily cycle out to our camp site in the suburbs whilst Sal cycled back to get the caravan.

Distance covered so far

709 km = 440 miles

First swim of the trip!

Rob left yesterday and Sal drove Arby to the next camp in Keskastel before coming back to join me on her bike.. We then did a circuitous route back to the camp so she did'nt have to repeat herself. The country side is so beautiful...very green and wild flowers including poppies, decorating the verges. Cuckoos are still calling and there has not been a day when we haven't heard one. We stopped for a beer about 4 kms from 'home' and the landlord said we could get to Strasbourg along the canal...oh joy! more hill avoidance. It was however uphill back to the camp but the lake 50 metres from the caravan made it worthwhile and we chucked ourselves in ( Well Sal was a bit more sedate!) It was FREEZING but we soon warmed up in the hot hot sun. Today is another warm day and we are just about to set off. Should get half way to Strasbourg. Speak tomorrow.

More photos

1. Charlie and Dan at first camp in Lignes. They were great at getting the camp up and running.
2. Sal and Mary Ann at camp in Chenefleur. We spent two nights here.
3. Rob waving us farewell as we crossed the Moselle on a little foot bridge. He had appeared out of the blue and produced a fabulous lunch including the longed for beer!
4. Sal then took a photo of him as he drove away on his way to Burtoncourt. If anyone wants to drive in Italy...weeks 2 and 3 need a driver.
5. Sweet little camp in St Avald although we had to scamper down a bank with bikes, from a flyover in order to get on the right road ! Many hills so only did 20 miles.
6. Back to the footbridge going over the Moselle. We try to use cycle routes when possible although invariably we end up lost in a forest or on a horrendously steep hill!

Hilly days are a coming!

We left lovely Luxembourg this morning and are now in Burtoncourt in France (I think!!!!) we seem to have been to Germany as well!. Cycled down a bit of the Moselle and amazingly found Rob parked up by the river with lunch and beers all ready for us. Up until then we had only encountered a couple of steep hills but oh boy they came later. Bottom gear on at least 5 out of 30 hills. Aches and pains still at bay although we could do without these 5-7 hour days. We have seen more cows than we have ever seen in a single week ...so, why no fresh milk in Belgium, Lux, Germany or France.? Rob had to bring some out from the UK. Have to to get Rob to the train tomorrow and then on to Strasbourg. Days are much cooler and a bit of rain today. Heres hoping for more sunshine.... speak tomorrow i hope

mary ann coupland and sally howell:

mary ann coupland and sally howell:

1. leaving calais

2. necessary lunchtime beer

3. french canal

4. changing tyres

5. cycling down the magnificent meuse

6. path leading to British war cemetary where I saw a solitary poppy. poignant moment.

7. rob and sals 29th wedding anniversary on the 15th may.

So sorry folks. i'm struggling to get photos on blog!

I've sent an SOS to daughter Charlie and nephew Didee in the hope they can help!
We have had another rest day (I know i know, 2 in one week) but we needed to do some serious route planning. Yesterday was a funny and as it turned out a VERY long day. We cycled easily to Sedan (Is this where Sedan chairs came from ?) where we had our lunch time beer and whilst looking at a map were 'picked up' by a fellow french cyclist called Christian, who told us to follow him to avoid hills. He took us on a 3 hour detour and for sure at that time we did avoid major hills. It was a different story after he left us though as there were hills going UP (of course) in every direction. There was only one that defeated me  and i promise you it was almost vertical! Anyway it turned out to be 7 hrs and 21 minutes in the saddle and about 87 kms. That brings our total up to 530.88 kms (330 miles) and we are now back in belgium in the delightful town of Tintigny. Neither of us have serious aches and pains and our bikes continue to behave beautifully. Tomorrow is a short hop (34 miles) to Luxembourg.
If anyone is able to pull a caravan over the Alps....it looks like Bruce wont be able to do it. We would need you for about 3 days, maybe four, from Luzerne in Switzerland on about the 27th May .

Yesterday and today....Days 8 and 9

Yesterday was wonderful! We left Rob clearing up our camp at Chimay and made our way across to Recroy, a wonderful little Garrison town where we had our much longed for (and only) beer of the day in its centre. The town is surrounded by an unfilled moat and has bridges at its entrance and exit. From there we headed for Revin which was to be our start of the River Meuse all the way down to Charlville Meziere some 4 hours away. However we had the Valley Misere to get through first...Yikes. We missed it ! and instead hurtled down a six mile hill .Yes DOWN all the way and screaming with laughter all the way down to the little mining town of St Nicholas. Not far from there was Revin which we weaved through. We are getting pretty good at this weaving lark! and the start of the Magnificent Meuse. It was truly wonderful. Passing through little villages on the way, Lock after lock. We met Rob at some point reading his book very peacefully on the bank of the river having driven there. After a total of 54 miles we treated ourselves to a meal in the very pretty centre of Charlville Meziere only a 15 min walk from the camp site.
We knew that after all the down hills and flat riding we were in for a shock today. More of that tomorrow

Mary Ann Coupland is fundraising for Cancer Research UK

Mary Ann Coupland is fundraising for Cancer Research UK


The end of that link should read Mary-Ann-Coupland0

Day off in Chimay for MA while Sal cycles yesterdays route

I did a  hilly but pretty ride from Landrecie to Chimay (about 52 km) yesterday whilst Sal got our caravan (Now called Robert the Bruce or Arby for short !) safely settled in a camp in the centre of Chimay where we are staying for 2 nights. This morning i drove her to yesterdays camp site and shes cycling back as i write this. I drove her cycle route and its even hillier than mine was so i hope she turns up today !!!! She will of course, especially as we are expecting Rob sometime this afternoon. He'll stay with us for a week and support us down the River Meuse and then the hills really begin !! Internet continues to be a problem so yet again i can't post any pictures as stuck in my apple mac.One day!
We are passing a few British war cemeteries and i popped into one yesterday to say 'hallo'. On the long grey gravelly path leading down to the graves was a tiny, solitary, single red poppy. It was very poignant and i burst into tears!
The bikes are behaving beautifully. We don't have any aches and pains that can't be sorted with Voltarel Gel, the weather is lovely and the flora and fauna is glorious on these sunny May days. Don't forget to look in the Blog Archive at the bottom of the page if you want to catch up with previous posts.
bye for now!

HURRAH...someone has lent us a computer!

We have been going for 5 days now and have cycled about 160 miles; Charlie and Dan, our first crew headed back to the Uk yesterday. They were fantastic to have on board and had the caravan ready and waiting when we  arrived back each night. The weather has been hot and sunny and we have developed the habit of a mid cycle beer....rocket fuel !!!! Our route so far has taken us from Calais, down to Licques across to Aire sur la Lys, then to Violaines near La Basse, Marchienne and now a really lovely, friendly village called Semeries. For the last two days, Sal has taken the caravan to the next site and then cycled back to meet me. Its working well but I look forward to Rob arriving so we can cycle together again.
Not too many near misses but one or two. We have both started off on the wrong side of the road, and today I cycled down the slip road to the A2 autoroute thinking the exit I wanted was on the way. I had a very red face on the way back up!!! Im going to try and put some photos up but am on a french computer and everything is upside down and the wrong way round. Internet is def at the next camp in Chimay tomorrow night. Don:t give up on us !!!!

Internet Problems

Hello! We are in La Basse which is South East of Lille. Everything is great and the weather is fab. Unfortunately we are struggling with the internet connection so this is just a short message. Pics will go up soon.

Lots of love Mary Ann and Sally (by proxy!)

We've done our first 20 miles !

Sal seems to be fine. Charlie and Dan drove us to the centre of Calais and we had a wonderful couple of hours finding Liques mostly along a canal. Sunshine all the way (sorry Andrew!) and a cold beer at the end. We did have to negotiate one very long , fairly steep hill that seemed never ending but we flew down the other side ! (I didn't use my brakes once Bruce!!!) Photos tomorrow...we have arrived at a great camp site but now need to plan tomorrow and get to bed.

Oh No! Sally's poorly.

With just 2 1/2 days to go, Sal is in bed with acute tonsillitis and no voice. She also fell over in the farm yard last week and her hand is very puffy. GET WELL soon Sal...I need you. xxx